Thomas Keller: leek bread pudding
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Leek bread pudding
Ingredients:
2 cups 1/2-inch-thick slices leeks (white and light green parts only)
Kosher salt
4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted butter
Freshly ground black pepper
12 cups 1-inch cubes crustless Brioche (page 272) or
Pullman sandwich loaf
1 tablespoon finely chopped chives
1 teaspoon thyme leaves
3 large eggs
3 cups whole milk
3 cups heavy cream
Freshly grated nutmeg
1 cup shredded Comté or Emmentaler
Just as custards work well in the savory portion of the meal, although they’re more often served as a dessert, so do bread puddings. This one is a great complement to the Blowtorch Prime Rib Roast (page 56) and Pan-Roasted Duck Breasts (page 35). But you could also top it with Oven-Roasted Tomatoes (page 262) and serve it as a vegetarian meal.
Method:
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Put the leek rounds in a large bowl of tepid water and swish so that any dirt falls to the bottom of the bowl. Set a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat, lift the leeks from the water, drain, and add them to the pan. Season with salt and cook, stirring often, for about
5 minutes. As the leeks begin to soften, lower the heat to medium-low.
The leeks will release liquid. Stir in the butter to emulsify, and season with pepper to taste. Cover the pan with a parchment lid (see page 120), and cook, stirring every 10 minutes, until the leeks are very soft, 30 to
35 minutes. If at any point the butter breaks or looks oily, stir in about a tablespoon of water to re-emulsify the sauce. Remove and discard the parchment lid.
Meanwhile, spread the bread cubes on a baking sheet and toast in the oven for about 20 minutes, rotating the pan about halfway through, until dry and pale gold. Transfer to a large bowl. Leave the oven on.
Add the leeks to the bread and toss well, then add the chives and thyme.
Lightly whisk the eggs in another large bowl. Whisk in the milk, cream, a generous pinch of salt, pepper to taste, and a pinch of nutmeg.
Sprinkle 1/4 cup of the cheese in the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Spread half the leeks and croutons in the pan and sprinkle with another 1/4 cup cheese. Scatter the remaining leeks and croutons over and top with another1/4 cup cheese. Pour in enough of the custard mixture to cover the bread and press gently on the bread so it soaks in the milk. Let soak for about 15 minutes.
Add the remaining custard, allowing some of the soaked cubes of bread to protrude. Sprinkle the remaining 1/4 cup cheese on top and sprinkle with salt.
Bake for 1 1/2 hours, or until the pudding feels set and the top is brown and bubbling.
SERVES 12 AS A SIDE DISH,
6 TO 8 AS A MAIN COURSE
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SKYY Cherry Delight
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2 oz. SKYY Infusions Cherry
0.75 oz. Cream
0.75 oz. Earl Grey Simple Syrup*
Grated Cinnamon
Grated Dark Chocolate
Combine SKYY Infusions Cherry, cream and simple syrup into cocktail shaker with ice. Shake vigorously until frothy (around 10-15 seconds). Strain into chilled cocktail glass and finish by grating cinnamon and dark chocolate onto the surface.
Survival and Sustainable Garden to Table
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School yards and back yards are seeing resurgence in urban and rural survival garden patches. Organic gardens especially are providing ‘clean’ produce low on the food chain. Students can learn where our produce actually comes from and perhaps learn a of love of nature, gardening, growing and cooking with fresh natural foods. A valuable lesson for the student’s, is to compare commercially grown strawberries (up to 40 pesticides!) to organically grown ones (more delicious, nutritious and clean).
It was Alice Waters from Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, who started one of the first seedlings to table gardens at schools in 1995. She has long believed that cooking and eating together at the table, teaches us all compassion. An important and inspired quote from Water’s reads; “Producing, preparing and sharing food teaches us that actions have consequences, that survival requires cooperation and that people and nature are interdependent.”
Australian chef and food educator, Stephanie Alexander shares a similar food philosophy and values as Alice Waters. Stephanie initiated the Kitchen Garden Foundation across 120 schools in the Eastern States of Australia. These tasty gardens are now popping up in a plethora of places.
These two passionate creative food educators have taken up the Jamie Oliver banner to shift our kids away from junk to real foods. In point of fact, Jamie visited one of the Australian schools, cooked and shared an impressive organic meal with the students and staff.
My own food philosophy evolved over the decades, beginning with childhood experiences at my cousin’s farm in Ferndale, Washington. My cousins and I picked beans, hoed corn, and dug out carrots when we were in trouble or hungry. I mixed bread for everyone in a bowl nearly bigger than me and churned the butter after milking cows.
This and the occurrence of winning a 6th grade cake-baking contest resulted in my longstanding love of honest fresh foods. One teacher encouraged me to enter, as I was actually rather shy and my Mom had me put orange juice and fresh ginger to add moisture to the cake batter and a subtle zing. This is a good example of the influence of early positive reinforcement in our schools, from our mentor teachers and family.
All of these experiences evolved into my healthy eating message for the next 30 years. I enthusiastically keep spreading the message through cooking classes, media tours, food articles and creation cookbooks.
In Australia, I had the opportunity to consult for Buderim Ginger in Queensland and develop a whole series of recipes themed “Around the World” with Buderim Ginger. This celebrated cultural diversity and the collective thread of weaving ginger into the various ethnic cuisines. It was my first year in Australia and I was privileged to join the Sydney Fine Food Show as a guest chef. I demonstrated a number of dishes centre stage and then ran back to the booth to cook and pass out samples, hundreds of samples of each recipe using their new fresh green ginger puree. Some of you may know of the fun working in trade-shows.
The eco-view began for me in the early 1970’s when my concern for the food supply and planet first surfaced. My marine biologist professor read from, The Silent Spring by Rachel Carson and said we have gone too far on polluting the planet- all was irreversible. I was deeply moved and read more on the subject and became an early eco-ethicurean.
In California in the 80’s Chino Farms started to grow organic baby vegetables. Chefs, yuppies and foodies flocked to their stand for beautiful, tasteful produce. It took me right back to my days on the farm and a renewal of my resolve to search and dine on true farmers market foods.
In nearly all of the Australia Home Economics departments, there is not one organic culinary class in theory or in practice. The recipes being cooked in lab kitchens and also served from the canteens are often appalling. The new edict by the federal government of Yellow and Red Light Foods is what any thinking nutritionist would eschew. In schools today, I see what’s being cooked and served in the classrooms and from the canteen which prompts me to shake my head sadly.
Besides the teens lack of concentration and intrinsic motivation, the suicide rate is rising, as is violence on campus. When parents think Coco Puffs or “Nutella” spread is a good breakfast what chance do these kids have? Not much, since for the first time in history our children will not outlive their parents because of the globesity epidemic.
Now droughts are upon us, food and petrol prices are soaring, and our earth is over-heated and groaning. People, even in Perth, Western Australia the most isolated city in the world, are frenzied in the fast lane. This full-throttle life-style is taking its toll on us with stress and every type of degenerative disease. The feral fast foods many are loutishly devouring are taking a toxic toll in a myriad of manners. We were supposed to be stewards of the planet, right?
We who have lost our sense and our senses—our touch, our smell, our vision of who we are, we who frantically force and press all things, without rest for body or spirit, hurting our earth and injuring ourselves: we call a halt.
We want to rest. We need to rest and allow the earth to rest. We need to reflect and to rediscover the mystery that lives in us, that is the ground of every unique expression of life, the source of the fascination that calls all things to communion.
We declare a Sabbath, a space of quiet for simply being and letting be, for recovering the great, forgotten truths, for learning how to live again.
U.N. Environmental Sabbath Program
But I am not here to be negative or alarmist but to offer my humble philosophical reflections and a case study of a delicious success. I wish to write from the heart, of my experience, strength and hope. (Actually, in the middle of this first draft I rolled off my chair and did some yoga stretches and the child’s pose. I just searched deeply, for the words to give meaning to the significance of this topic.)
With all this cooking and writing, I never had the time, space or success to garden for decades. I used to joke I had a white thumb from baking rather than a green thumb. That, of course, would be spelt organic un-bleached white flour.
However, this year I have the necessary ingredients to have an organic raised garden installed in my own little backyard. I heard of a new business in Perth regarding organic gardening. Tim Woodard, of Your Patch (www.yourpatch.com.au) installs a raised garden bed with organic soil mix, organic seeds and seedlings, reticulation and pest control made up of organic oils and sprays. He has several designs suitable for homes and schoolyards. The raised beds are aesthetic and make all that gardening easier. I’ve long wanted to grow organic produce for myself before embracing further action and his organic garden system has helped me to do so.
Onslow, Western Australia is a case study in point. Marcelle Coakley, canteen manager of Onslow Primary School is harvesting a great victory garden of 20 raised beds of produce, for the school, canteen and the entire town.
Some of her reasons for implementing an organic garden are:
1. Reinforces healthy eating and the development of a discerning palate
2. Provides a holistic relationship between schools, families and local communities (good ole inclusivity)
3. Nurtures life-long practical skills and predilection for real foods
4. Imparts a calming environment for students with behaviour issues
5. Fosters an environmental consciousness of stewardship
6. Shifts toward sustainable food systems and vertical integration and synergy
7. Revolutionizes the school lunch programs
Students that water the garden, see the varied greens grow and finally taste the nuances of flavours which may touch their hearts and palates for their own healthier future. They then make harvest soups, salmon fish cakes, vegetable frittatas, edible schoolyard tea and other healthy recipes.
Ms. Coakley shares that the kids have really been great in trying new things and when cooking new recipes such as flavoured pestos, bruschetta and learning about braising, they are much more willing to have a go.
On Fridays the students share lunch with the community that come to visit. This precious time of trying new foods from what was grown, harvested, cooked and shared also lends a note of discovery of new friends and knowledge through leisurely conversation.
Hint Waters: Simplicity, not Sugar
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Maybe it’s just me, but in the past few years, it seems there’s been an explosion of various new beverages. Different types of tea, energy drinks, and flavored waters have hit grocery store shelves. In many cases, they are promoted for their healthy benefits, weather it’s more focus or additional vitamins or something else entirely. With these claims, I can’t help but be skeptical. It could be simply because I’m getting older and more crotchety by the day. However, when I don’t recognize half the ingredients listed on the back of my beverage, it worries me a bit. Call me old fashion, or simplistic, or possibly even progressive, but I would like what I drink to be simple and made with real, natural ingredients.
That brings me to Hint waters. When my editor informed me some flavored waters were arriving, I wasn’t too excited. I figured that meant I’d be sampling a beverage claiming to be water when it was really water plus sugar or sweetener with a few supposed healthy mystery ingredients. But when I actually got my hands on the bottles, I was surprised. The ingredient list was incredibly simple: water and natural fruit flavors. There was no sugar, no artificial sweetener, and no mystery ingredients. Such simplicity was a small victory itself. Of course, the most important question still remained. How did they taste?
To answer that, I will say this. If you enjoy drinking sugar water and have made your peace with the fact that it really isn’t very good for you, then stick with your current beverage. However, if you actually are concerned with putting good stuff into your body, but aren’t a fan of totally flavorless drinks, I’d highly recommend trying Hint waters. When chilled, they are clean and refreshing, with just enough fruit flavors to perk up your taste buds. These waters are not sweet – just lightly accented by authentic fruit flavors. It could be a great way to start drinking more water in a day or a way to cut down your caloric intake if you’re willing to give up sugary beverages. All four flavors I sampled were solid. My personal favorites among them were watermelon and mango-grapefruit, but read about each of them and try them for yourself. They are widely available at many supermarkets and at Starbucks.
Hint Watermelon: Nice and clean on the palate. Subtle watermelon flavor but still enough that you notice. Adds a bit of a twist to just plain water.
Hint Mango-grapefruit: Most pronounced flavor of the ones I tried, but certainly not overpowering at all. It’s still clean and refreshing, just with a bit more pizzazz.
Hint Pomegranate-tangerine: Quite approachable with well-balanced flavors. More pomegranate up front followed by tangerine. Finish has a palpable note of fruit skin to it. It’s subtle yet still interesting.
Hint Blackberry: Distinct, authentic blackberry notes. A softer element to this flavor. Still clean and refreshing.
By Michael Perkins
Chicken Coq Au Vin By Executive Chef Josh Silvers
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Chicken Coq Au Vin By Executive Chef Josh Silvers of Syrah Restaurant, Santa Rosa, CA
Serves 2 – 4
Ingredients:
1 Whole Fresh Organic Chicken (quartered)
Sauce Ingredients
2 slices Applewood Smoked Bacon (cut into little strips – lardouns)
1 cup Carrots (diced)
1 Yellow Onion (sliced)
2 Shallots (minced)
1 1/2 cups Red Wine
1/2 cup Port
1 tspn. Tomato Paste
1 cup Demi Glace (veal glace)
Rice Ingredients:
4 clusters Cinnamon Cap Mushrooms
2 tspn. Butter
1 cup Jasmine Rice
TT Salt and Pepper
2 sprigs of Fresh Thyme
Cooking Method:
1. Lightly salt, pepper and flour the fresh, organic, chicken, then sauté in butter and peanut oil. (The peanut oil helps to stabilize the butter.) Let the chicken brown, flip it over, and put in the sliced bacon to cook.
2. Then add the carrots, onion, shallots, continue to sauté, and then add liquids of wine, port, tomato paste, and one cup of veal glace. Add fresh thyme. Cover, bake at 450 degrees, for 20 minutes or so.
3. Remove chicken, reduce sauce, add 2 tspn. butter (adds richness to sauce, thickens it, adds sheen, and fullness to the mouth.) Use salt and pepper to taste, serve with rice. Garnish with fresh thyme.
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